Recently I posted about our trip to Paris in April. Well now you can listen. Annie Sargent at the Join Us in France Podcast interviewed me about traveling with teens. If you are planning a trip to France anytime soon this podcast is loaded with episodes that will give you real, practical advice. Check it out at https://joinusinfrance.com/episode/20-tips-for-visiting-paris-with-teenagers/
It Takes a Kitchen™
Hillary Clinton says it takes a village. But first the village has to eat. In my book, it takes a kitchen. Come and discover why food is part of everything we do, and just like romance, is most often enjoyed with and binds us to others. Along the way, I will tease you into discovering the science and philosophy that will help you seduce the lover, impress the boss, build the family and change the community. And we will probably get to share some recipes on this journey...
Tuesday, May 28, 2019
Wednesday, April 24, 2019
Paris is Always a Good Idea
For the first time in almost a decade I recently returned to
Europe. This time was different. I wasn’t with students, not doing research.
This time I returned for a family vacation, and not for a grand tour but for
hardly anything more than to sink into Paris. Somehow Paris has become the city
I have returned to almost more than any other, anywhere, for visits. York,
Maine might edge it out, but barely. There’s a big world out there so why
return to the same places, right? But Paris seems to pop up for me all the
time. This time it was to show the kids, two teens, a little about art, food,
travel, and culture and for my wife and I to run around one of our favorite
places. As usual, food took center stage. Here’s a few of the highlights:
1.
Arrival dinner, we exhaustedly stumbled over to
Rue Montorgueil. So many choices, but we headed to the landmark L'Escargot Montorgueil with its
giant, gold snails. With no reservation we got scrambled up to a table with its
own staircase above the foyer. Totally private, it turned out to be a great
place for us to relax and just have a family dinner at the end of a big travel
day. Service was stellar as was the food – escargot, mussels, veal chops, beef
bourguignon, foie gras, steak tartare – we went all in on a real French bienevenue! It was a spectacular start.
The highlight was likely the foie gras, somehow seared on the outside just
enough to yield a crust, but not enough to melt it. That’s no easy feat.
2.
A hot dog under the Eiffel Tower. What? But what
if they hollow out a nice, crusty baguette and fill it with the hot dog?
Something to be said for blending cultures.
3.
We snuck away for a night in Luxembourg for
(very) old times’ sake and had some wonderful food experiences. Brasserie de Cercle had a
wonderful Kniddelen mat Speck,
essentially large, simple dumplings in a cream sauce with nice chunks of fried
speck. Delicious! We also returned to Giorgio’s, now Onesto, but essentially the same. The
Bolognese remains delicious but the pizza is special. We had a lunch at a
sausage stand next to the road in Bereldange and it reminded me of being 14!
4.
After a long walk and a few hours in the Louvre
we dragged ourselves to my favorite place to eat in Paris – Chez Denise, not
far off of Rue Rivoli. This is a classic bistro, no frills of any kind, simple
service, crowded space, one menu scrawled on a large chalkboard. This place was
made somewhat famous in Anthony Bourdain’s No
Reservations, season one, episode one. I’ve read that fame has ruined it,
but I disagree. It was not filled with tourists, the menu has not been
simplified (or translated), and it remains delicious. We started with the house
terrine. Two massive slices, rich, meaty and carnivorously delicious. Our
entrees were stuffed cabbage, a braised fish, lamb chops and lamb brains. Every
dish was spot on. Each of us swooned with happiness with each of our choices.
We ate everything. We finished with mousse au chocolat that had the kids saying
it was the most amazing thing they’d ever eaten. It was a flawless French
ending to a perfect French day.
6.
Each day we walked past a Chinese noodle shop.
Each night there was a line outside. Each walk past we had to stop and watch
the noodle stretchers do their work by hand in the front window. After a few
days of this we had to eat there. Les
Pates Vivantes proved to be wonderful. We each got different dishes –
soups, fried noodles and noodles of different sizes. Each dish tasted like
sunshine. Fresh, crisp, bright and flavorful. There’s a reason this place is
full all the time. Great, no nonsense service and perfect, filling, delicious
food.
Saturday, June 9, 2018
Thank you, Mr. Bourdain
If you are the sort to be reading this blog you have heard
long ago of the passing of Anthony Bourdain. And it will come as no surprise
that he was one of my models for food and for writing. I have followed his
career for almost 20 years and have loved watching his evolution from writing
about restaurant kitchens to travel and ultimately about self-exploration and
social justice. He taught us all a lot. I’ve been amazed by the multitude of
directions and sources from which I am seeing memorials on Facebook. Writers of
travel, food, culture, politics, pop culture and civil rights have been
celebrating him. I don’t need to replay his career or what we should get from
him, but I can’t help but share for a moment what I got from him.
Your body is not a temple. It’s an amusement park. Enjoy the
ride.
Travel. Always. Particularly to Vietnam.
Speak up for others. Introduce others to each other. Bring
difference together.
Use your opportunities and your privilege. Us affluent white
guys have a voice, sure, but cede the space when you have it to those too often
ignored and give them space to speak their truth.
Speak truth to power. Punch up. Speak loud. Be not ashamed
or apologetic. Call out hypocrisy and immorality. Stand by those who do the
same.
Eat everything at least once.
Eating is ultimately about sharing space, sharing stories,
sharing lives.
The best meal is defined by the company, not the food.
Beauty comes in all shapes, sizes, colors, ages, locations.
Appreciate beauty in all its manifestations for its own sake. Seek beauty.
Protect those who need protection.
Disturb the comfortable. Comfort the disturbed.
Thank you, Mr. Bourdain, for making the world a better place.
Tuesday, July 25, 2017
The City of Culinary Love - Philly
On our way to a family vacation in Maine we took a weekend
in Philadelphia. I realize Philly isn’t exactly on many people’s lists of ideal
weekend getaways – it’s not Vegas or NYC
and it’s got quite the blue collar reputation – but that should change. We had
a blast. The city lacks any pretensions, is easy to get around, and the eating
was awesome. Here’s a quick rundown.
The night we arrived we strolled over to Monk's Cafe. This place has been on my
must-visit list for 20 years due to its reputation as a beer-drinker’s mecca. It’s
renowned specifically for its Belgian beer selection. It did not disappoint. It’s
a simple neighborhood place, lively late into the night and serves its full
menu till 1am. The beer selection is profound and represents a gigantic swath
of Belgian beer, but also a nice selection of others nations’ best. This is not
the sort of place that inflates its 300-beer selection with every variety of
AB/Miller/Coors. I opted for a La Chouffe which came with its brewery-specific
glass and tasted wonderful. Some Monk’s moulles et frites, a small salad, some
baguette and an additional frites and I might as well have been in Brussels.
The food was fresh, perfectly prepared and delicious. We could have eaten here
every night and been thrilled.
For breakfast the next day we tried the highly-recommended Green Eggs Cafe. People start lining up
here early and its stays busy all morning. Stand close to the hostess stand to
wait for your name, the line moves fast and they don’t wait around for you.
Once seated we were in a very busy and simple place that clearly loves fresh,
local food served in large, but not overwhelming helpings. I opted for the
kitchen sink – a skillet of potatoes, onions, sausage and peppers topped with
three eggs, a biscuit, Gruyere, and a creamy, white gravy. Amazing! This is
what a vacation breakfast should be. Granted, I needed a nap after, and a run
to the Rocky steps was needed but out of the question!
On our last day we took in what many say is the best Philly
cheesesteak in the city at John's
Roast Pork. A line out the door greeted us. Once inside we were amazed by
the energy. I don’t know how many people were at the grill, but the place was
hopping and was no-nonsense. Do not be intimidated. Know what you want and step
up for it…then wait patiently but when your name is called step up again. They
must serve hundreds of sandwiches daily. But since this isn’t the well-known
Pat’s or Geno’s you want to know how it was, right? It was perfect. The bread
was just strong enough to hold on to the juicy meat for as long as it took to
eat it. The beef was tender, chopped just right and the cheese (I went with
American, I like the way it melts) creamy through out. Look, this place is the epitome
of having no pretensions – you’re not here for dining. This is the place for a
simple sandwich and they all looked amazing.
For dinner we found a gem, Mr. Martino’s Trattoria. Martino’s
is opened only Friday through Sunday, is cash only and is BYOB for no corkage
fee. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, you’ll never find it. Outside
there’s no grand marque, no lit sign. The front window isn’t lit and curtains
cover the windows. It looks perpetually closed. But open that door. Inside is a
dimly lit space with seating for a couple dozen, sparsely decorated and well
worn. But if you can get a reservation, do not miss this quirky, delicious,
relaxed experience. Maria cooks on a 6-burner stove, servers will stop and
chat, Mr. Martino will check in with you, regulars will wander in for a treat
and you will eat deliciously. If I lived in Philly I would be here once a
month.
Philly proved a wonderful weekend getaway. The Liberty Bell
and historic Old City, 13th street and its nightlife, the 9th
Street Market, Reading Terminal Market, and the museums along Ben Franklin
Parkway offer enough to keep anyone busy for a long weekend and then some. I
know we look forward to getting back!
Sunday, January 22, 2017
Tasty Memories
One of my
most vivid food memories is my grandmother’s toukĂ©, a meat pie, essentially a
French Canadian pork pie, or tourtiere.
The smell, the unique spices, the texture of the crust mixed with pork
fat, were like nothing else I ever ate…until recently.
A couple
years ago my grandmother passed after over 80 years of near flawless
health. It came as a surprise. And honestly, one of the saddest thoughts I
had at the time was that there might be no more touké. I know various family members made attempts
to replicate virtually the only thing she could cook, but nobody had been able
to nail it. Then one day last year I was
at a great falafel place, Falafel's
Drive-In, in San Jose. I had one of
my usuals, the kouby, among other things.
But this time when I bit into the kouby, described on the menu as “a
middle-eastern meatball. It has a shell of cracked wheat that is stuffed with
ground beef, pine nuts, and onions,”
I had an epiphany. Some of the flavors
were identical to the touké.
Maybe if I found a recipe for kouby I could adjust it, put it in a pie
crust and end up with touké. I put this
on my to-do list. Then last month I was
in Ottawa and walked through a bakery in the Byward Market and saw a tourtiere,
the French Canadian meat pie. I didn’t
get any but determined that I would make my own when I got home.
A few weeks
ago I did just that. I looked up Middle
Eastern kouby or koubeh recipes and a few tortiere recipes and then crafted my
own. When I added my seasonings to the
meat I knew I had something. The smell
was exactly as I remembered. As it all
cooked in its pastry shell the house filled with all the rights scents. At dinner, when I finally took a bite, I
wept. It was almost perfect. It was a taste I hadn’t experienced in
years. And now I knew how to keep my
grandmother with me always.
Meme’s ToukĂ©, or
French-Canadian-Lebanese Meat Pie
2 pounds of
ground beef
2 pounds
ground pork
1 large
white onion, minced
1 egg,
beaten
2 cloves of
garlic, minced
3 pie crusts
with tops
2
tablespoons of butter
1 teaspoon
each of:
Ground sage
Ground thyme
Coriander
Allspice
Cumin
Nutmeg
Salt
Pepper
¼ teaspoon
each of:
Ground cinnamon
Ground cloves
Directions:
-Saute the onions and garlic in butter until slightly
translucent
-Add all the meat and all the seasonings and cook thoroughly,
stirring often, crushing the meat into very small, minced pieces.
-Prep the pie tins with pie crust bottoms.
-Drain most of the liquefied fat from the meat, reserving
about three tablespoons. Leave that in
the meat and let it all cool for about ten minutes.
-Scoop meat filling into each of the pie shells, spread out
evenly.
-Top each pie with a top, brush with beaten egg and pierce
with a few vents/slits
-Bake pies for 45 minutes at 350 or until golden brown.
-Serve hot with a salad and a rich red wine or hoppy beer.
Additional variation, add a few tablespoons of toasted ground pine nuts to the cooking meat and sprinkle some paprika on top of the pie crust before cooking. And feel free to alter the seasonings based on your individual tastes. These are unique and strong flavors.
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