This past weekend we finally got a chance to try one of
Santa Cruz’s newest Italian spots, Tramonti
in the Seabright neighborhood. I love
the Seabright neighborhood, and if I were a millionaire I would be looking for
ways to develop this into a “go-to” spot.
Nestled between the San Lorenzo river, the Harbor and Soquel Avenue, it
already has a great diversity of dining options, mixed housing, theater, a few
shops and nearby grocers. It just needs
something – an outdoor event of some sort, a festival in the streets, some more
shops, a pedestrianized alley-way, something to make it a destination.
Fortunately, the dining in Seabright is excellent,
already with two of my favorite spots, Seabright Brewing and La Posta. Now Tramonti joins the party. It’s a small, simply-decorated, modern space
with Ikea-like tables and chairs except for two giant olive-wood tables in the
center that are stunning. The dining
area can see into the brightly-lit, white kitchen creating one vast, open,
bright space. The spaces between tables
are huge, perfect for the proprietors’ children to ride tricycles through,
adding to the family-friendly charm.
The menu is authentically Italian. Wood-fired pizzas include 4 Stagioni and
Capricciosa. Pastas include taglioni and
the possibility of a simple tomato sauce dressed with Grana Padano. This place is clearly committed to
authenticity.
Service was almost non-existent until they noticed us,
but was then excellent. Our waiter was
Italian in every way – accent, flair, warmth, humorous – and efficient. Once ordered, our Minabrea birra and
Sangiovese wine quickly arrived. Then
came our Santa Croce (Italian for Santa Cruz…clever) salad. That was truly great. Kale, mixed greens, arugula, Grana Padano and
Feta, and nuts dressed with a citronette (maybe a touch too much) was delicious and
large enough to share. Then came the
pizza. My standard test for any
supposed-Neapolitan pizza place is their Capricciosa – mushrooms, prosciutto
cotto (cooked) and an egg in the middle.
This was the Tramonti interpretation, but I have also seen this with
olives and artichokes, too. The pizza arrived
straight from the oven…charred and bubbled crust lent it visual authenticity
while the smell was exquisite. The
flavors were delicious. The tomato sauce
was light and fresh, no tomato paste in sight.
The textures were spot on. It may
not have been the best I have had outside of Italy, but it did the trick. My lone disappointment was in the prosciutto. I am reasonably sure that the ham was just
that…ham…and not a high quality prosciutto.
And I really love a thin-sliced prosciutto on my pizza – crudo or
cotto.
The bottom line for me…Tramonti is trying to create an
authentic Italian experience and not cater too much to an American taste. I appreciate that. And they’re doing a pretty good job. I will return, I will eat more pizza, I will
try some pasta, and I will bring the kids.
It was delicious and family-friendly for a very reasonable price.
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